Summer Trip 2016 Part 10 – Venice III

2016-12-05 at 08:23

Part three of the 2016 visit to Venice in Italy.
You find part 1 here : Venice without Tourists and the best Place to stay for small Money
And part 2 here: Summer Trip 2016 Part 9: Venice II

We are still on this map:

Day one of Venice
Our walking tour today

Chiesa di San Rocco

The Chiesa di San Rocco or Church of Saint Roch was built between 1489 and 1508 by Bartolomeo Bon the Younger. It was substantially altered and received a baroque facelift in 1725 and the façade is 40 years younger and was designed by Bernardino Maccarucci. The church is one of the Plague-churches built in Venice.

The tower of the Chiesa di San Rocco
The tower of the Chiesa di San Rocco in the back

Ceiling of the nave
Ceiling of the nave

The organ
The organ

The Dome and the apse were decorated by Il Pordenone
The Dome and the apse were decorated by Il Pordenone

The Dome and the apse were decorated by Il Pordenone

Main altar by Venturino Fantoni
Main altar by Venturino Fantoni

Christ expels the merchants from the temple
Christ expels the merchants from the temple

Christ Healing the Paralytic painted by Tintoretto in 1559
Christ Healing the Paralytic painted by Tintoretto in 1559

San Rocco on top of the church

San Rocco on top of the church

San Barnaba
San Barnaba round the corner from Chiesa di San Rocco

On the right the tower of Santa Maria dei Carmini - in the back the twin towers of San Raffaele Arcangelo
On the right the tower of Santa Maria dei Carmini – in the back the twin towers of San Raffaele Arcangelo

Looking down the Rio Malpaga
Looking down the Rio Malpaga

At the Grand Canal
At the Grand Canal

Lunchtime! Pizza and Beer: Perfect combination for lunch!
Lunchtime! Pizza and Beer: Perfect combination for lunch!

Maria somewhere at the Campo Della Carità
Maria somewhere at the Campo Della Carità

Looking down the Grand Canal to the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute
Looking down the Grand Canal to the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute – our next stop.

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

The Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute or Basilica of St. Mary of Health or as the people say La Salute, is one of the largest churches of Venice. The church has the status of a minor basilica. In 1630 Venice had an unusually devastating outbreak of the plague. It had killed about a third of Venice’s population so it was time for a new church. They dedicated the new church to Our Lady of Health or of Deliverance thus Santa Maria della Salute. That is why most of the objects of art bear references to the Black Death.

Construction of the church begun in 1631. The Church is a vast, octagonal building with two domes and a pair of bell-towers at the back of the main building. The platform is made of one million wood piles. The façade is constructed with Istrian stone and marmorino a brick covered with marble dust.

The church is full of Marian symbolism – the great dome represents her crown, the cavernous interior her womb, the eight sides the eight points on her symbolic star.

In the sacristy (Sacrestia Maggiore) you find a painting of the Marriage at Cana from Tintoretto which includes a self-portrait and is considered one of his best works. You should not miss it when you visit! But the most represented artist in La Salute is Titian. He painted St Mark Enthroned with SS Cosmas, Damian, Sebastian and Roch; the altarpiece of the sacristy; ceiling paintings of David and Goliath, Abraham and Isaac and Cain and Abel; eight tondi of the Doctors of the Church and the Evangelists and Pentecost in the nave.

The Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute
Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

Statue of the Virgin blessing the city
Statue of the Virgin blessing the city

Over the entrance of Santa Maria della Salute
Over the entrance of Santa Maria della Salute

Detail from the Over the entrance of Santa Maria della Salute
Detail from the Santa Maria della Salute

Main entrance of the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute
The main entrance of the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute – let’s go inside!

Inside the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute
If you look at the outside with all the statues and decoration you expect a similar decoration inside the building. But inside the church is more restrained and perfectly proportioned. Unlike almost all the other churches in Venice this one is flooded with light.

Inside the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

Inside the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

Inside the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

Inside the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

Inside the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

Inside the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

View towards the High Altar with the holy icon of Panagia Mesopantitisa
View towards the High Altar with the holy icon of Panagia Mesopantitisa.

High Altar with the holy icon of Panagia Mesopantitisa
The high altar designed by Longhena bears a Byzantine Madonna and Child of the 12th or 13th century which was brought from Crete in 1670.

Inside the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore
At the tip of the island looking towards Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore

View towards San Marco
And the view over the Grand Canal towards San Marco

It was late afternoon – time to go back to the bus station. We went down at the canal towards the Cultural Flow Zone. But it was to hot in the sun so we got back into the small streets. Zigzag from one bridge to another. The map on the phone did help a lot. Had a cold beer and some chips close to the Cultural Flow Zone and from there we walked east.

Campo San Tomá
Campo San Tomá

Maria

The bell tower of the Chiesa di San Polo
The bell tower of the Chiesa di San Polo

Courtyard of the Casa di Carlo Goldini
Courtyard of the Casa di Carlo Goldini

Great! That is what I love in some parts of Asia as well
Great! That is what I love in some parts of Asia as well

San Simeone Profeta
San Simeone Profeta

Top of the San Simeone Piccolo
Top of the San Simeone Piccolo

San Simeone Piccolo
San Simeone Piccolo

Detail of the façade of the Scuola Grande
Detail of the façade of the Scuola Grande

Ponte degli Scalzi
We had a final beer at the Ponte degli Scalzi. Just on the right of it is a small seating area next to the water. After that it was time to get to the bus stop and back to Camping Village Jolly. Made some salad, had a glass of Red and did sleep very good after the shower.

 
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Summer Trip 2016 Part 9 – Venice II

2016-11-30 at 12:37

Part two of the 2016 visit to Venice in Italy. You find part 1 here : Venice without Tourists and the best Place to stay for small Money

Day one of Venice
Our walking tour today

Lets pick up where the last blog post ended – at the Calle Ca’ D’Oro – looking down the canal.

View from the end of The Rialto Market from the Calle Ca' D'Oro

The Rialto Market from the Calle Ca' D'Oro
The Rialto Market from the Calle Ca’ D’Oro. If you want to see the real action you have to get up very early. The fish market for example does end early and you will only see it empty. With all the tourist things going on it is nice to see that such a market still exists in the middle of the city.

Tower of the Chiesa die Santi Apostoli
Tower of the Chiesa die Santi Apostoli

View from the Campiello del Remer towards the Rialto Market
View from the Campiello del Remer towards the Rialto Market. Remer square is very small and not easy to find. But if you do want to go you should go for Aperitivo at the Taverna del Campiello Remer. It is not the best Aperitivo in Venice but you can get decent snacks and enjoy a drink sitting on the wooden jetty. Most people who go will stay inside the restaurant so it is all yours. Almost – the few times I did that we where 5 people or less outside in the square – what else can you ask for in Venice?

View from the Ponte di Rialto
View from the Ponte di Rialto

Fruit stand at the Rialto Market
Fruit stand at the Rialto Market

Bird at the Rialto Market
This is how the fish market looks without fish – there is only one bird and a lot of fish smell left!

Now lets take a small break and enjoy the moment

The busy Venice tourist
The busy Venice tourist

Heike and me
We did find a supermarket next to a nice place to sit for a few minutes!

Birra Moretti
Birra Moretti – worth to try!

Vino station in a super market
Vino station in a super market – good idea to save energy. Bring your old bottles and your old cork!

Laundry detergent station in a super market
But do not get confused – this is Laundry detergent!

The electric candle in the church
The electric candle in the church – not sure about that but it might be environment friendlier after all

Now a few Knobs & Knockers

Door knob in Venice, Italy

Door knob in Venice, Italy

Door knocker in Venice, Italy

Door knocker in Venice, Italy

Door knocker in Venice, Italy

Door knocker in Venice, Italy

Venice
Looked away but with nice plastic flowers!

Let us continue the walk!

Danger! Rats!
Must be a real problem!

Venice Flowers
Since they do not really have gardens they love to have flowers outside the window if they can.

Chiesa di San Silvestro

Chiesa di San Silvestro
The Chiesa di San Silvestro in the back

Sant Aponal with the Chiesa di San Silvestro in the back
Sant Aponal with the Chiesa di San Silvestro in the back

Chiesa di San Silvestro
The Chiesa di San Silvestro dates back to the to the 9th century. It was rebuilt in the first half of the 15th and consecrated in 1422. There is not a lot left from the original church aside from the campanile and a column fragment with a capital of Veneto-Byzantine style that is built into the wall facing the Rio Terrà. The façade you see now was completed in 1909.

Chiesa di San Silvestro

Chiesa di San Silvestro

Chiesa di San Silvestro

Enough for today! It is 18:27 in Pai. It is dark outside and I need a shower and a bowl of Khao Soi!!

 
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Summer Trip 2016 Part 8 – Venice without Tourists and the best Place to stay for small Money

2016-11-21 at 17:05

The best place to stay? Camping Village Jolly!
Venice without tourists? Well that is not really possible. It might be at 3 in the morning but you will never walk in Venice for hours and see no tourists. But as you can see in the pictures there are still a lot of quite spots with almost no people. Is it the real Venice, is there such a thing? Fact is that more and more people move out of Venice. Everything gets converted into another tourist trap or rented on Air BnB. A lot of the houses look like they are in desperate need of repair. Not along the tourist highway but as soon as you wander away from it for a few minutes. We did walk a lot on the 1st day – take a look at the pictures!

From Ballabio to Venice

View from Fabis Balcony
The view in the morning from Fabi’s balcony. Looks like a good day to drive down South

Since Heike never saw Lake Garda we did stop in Rivoltella for a few minutes and walked down to the lake. If this is not nice – you tell me what is! The road with its noise is far down here and you can walk along the lake as well. On the left was a beach with a nice Beach Bar and a small restaurant as well. Looks like a place where one could easy spend a few days.

Rivoltella at the Lake Garda
Rivoltella at the Lake Garda

Church next to the parking
Nice church next to the car park

On the way one does pass so many nice little villages and I would stop many times. But since we are on the way to a wedding we are short on time. That is not really the way to travel. In the late afternoon we did reach Marghera and did check into our “hotel” for the next 3 nights.

Camping Village Jolly

I did book 3 nights at Camping Village Jolly for only 78€ in High Season! What? Yes! This was 78€ total for two people and one car, with shower, toilet, WiFi and Air-conditioner for 3 nights. I did not really expect to much but was surprised what we got for the money.

Our room at the Camping Village Jolly from the car
Our “room” at the Camping Village Jolly was half a trailer. They did put the sleeping rooms on the left and right and the bath rooms in the middle. That did work well for us. We never heard the other guys in their room. Of course you can hear them when they take a shower since the windows are next to each other. But for that money I do not care. There is door to the shower and when you close it – problem solved. I took this picture from where the car is parked. Super convenient since you do not have to pay for parking on the street and do not have to worry about the car. And we had the table to ourself since the other guys never used it. Great for Breakfast or a cold brew when you come back from Venice before you shower. And of course for a snack and a glass of Red before you hit the bed.

Our bathroom at the Camping Village Jolly
The bath room – small but all you need.

Our room at the Camping Village Jolly
The beds do not look to comfy but after a long and hot day walking in Venice you sleep really good in them. The Red you enjoy before bed might help a bit as well. It was quite entertaining watching lots of young British travellers wearing masks and pass us to go down to the pool party or coming back with their buckets. There was quite a mix of people at the Camping Village Jolly. Most of the guest where somewhere close to 20 but in our row the average was more 30 and up. And in the more expensive part it was even a bit higher. Next to our car where British, Dutch, Polish, Italian and French cars. Quite a good mix.

Our room at the Camping Village Jolly
There is another bed that folds out over the table – I did fold it out only for this picture – should be ok for a small person.

Camping Village Jolly has a little super market if you are to lazy to go to the bakery in the morning or need a cold beer when you come back from Venice. They also have a few pools in the front and do some party nights. This is where all the young people go every evening. One of the best things is the Bus shuttle they have. It is 2€ per person from the entrance of Camping Village Jolly to Tronchetto Marittima Island and another 2€ for the way back. How convenient is that? From there you walk about 5 minutes to Venice. There is only one bridge to cross. They do have bigger and nicer bungalows as well – check them out if you thinking to spend a few days in Venice and do not want to spend all your money on accommodation: Camping Village Jolly on Booking.com.

The next morning it was time to go to Venice

Venice minus the Tourists

We did take the bus at 10:00 into Venice – a little island before Venice to be precise. From there you walk only over one bridge and you are in Venice.

Since there are no streets for trucks everything has to come with the boat
Since there are no streets in Venice everything has to come with the boat. Here they do pack the stuff from the trucks into the boats.

Day one of Venice
I had the Tracker running but for some reason it did stop so I did paint the rest of the walk after the green button with my Wacom. About 22 kilometres all in all. Quite a walk on this sunny summer day. Temperatures where round 30 the whole day.
As you can see we did pass the Train Station and walked down to the next big channel took a left and circled clockwise round the island. That is the part (after the Train Station and after you take the left on the channel) where you will not find a lot of tourists. Compared to the places everybody goes that is!

Enough talking now – lets see some pictures:

View from Ponte della Costituzione. On the left you see Ponte degli Scalzi
View from the Ponte della Costituzione. On the left you see Ponte degli Scalzi from where I took the next picture. Everybody takes the first picture here if he did not took a few already 🙂

View from Ponte degli Scalzi
View from Ponte degli Scalzi. On the other side under the bridge or next to it is also a nice place to have a beer in the evening before you head back. Some people even stick their feet into the water. I think I pass – cheers!

Santa Maria di Nazareth (Gli Scalzi)
This time I did want to look into a few of the churches as well. So this is the first one we did pass. Santa Maria di Nazareth (or Gli Scalzi) next to the train station. Giuseppe Pozzo did build the main altar of Santa Maria di Nazareth. Construction of the church started in the mid 17th century and it took them till the end of it to finish it.

Even the casket is transported by boat
Even the casket is transported by boat.

Door Bell at Calle del Sotoportego Scuro
Door Bell at Calle del Sotoportego Scuro

Entrance at Fondamenta De Cannaregio
Entrance at Fondamenta De Cannaregio. Somebody does like white flowers here.

Further down Fondamenta De Cannaregio
Further down Fondamenta De Cannaregio. I was surprised how many people do have dogs in Venice. And I was even more surprised that nobody cleans up after their dogs.

Laundry in the sun at Calle de Forner
Laundry in the sun at Calle de Forner

Looking down the channel from the Ponte Moro
Looking down the channel from the Ponte Moro

Somebody does dry his fishing equipment at the Ponte Moro
Somebody does dry his fishing equipment at the Ponte Moro

A cross at the Fondamenta Moro o Coletti
A cross at the Fondamenta Moro o Coletti outside of the Chiesa delle Cappuccine.

Looking down the Rio Torete from the Ponte de le Torete
Looking down the Rio Torete from the Ponte de le Torete

Looking down the Fondamenta de la Sensa
Looking down the Fondamenta de la Sensa

Look what I found in the Calle del Capitelo
Look what I found in the Calle del Capitelo

The flower shop in the Calle del Forno gets a delivery
The flower shop in the Calle del Forno gets a delivery

The bronze statue of Paolo Sarpi in front of Santa Fosca
The bronze statue of Paolo Sarpi in front of Santa Fosca

Looking down the Rio del Trapolin
Looking down the Rio del Trapolin”

Fountain at the Calle Trevisan
Fountain at the Calle Trevisan. Lots of people are nice and put something for the many bird under the fountains. There are many of them – they are marked on the map. It is drinking water – saves you some €€€ and saves the environment a lot of empty plastic bottles!!

The winged Lion of Venice
The winged Lion of Venice

Nice façade at the Fondamenta de la Misericordia
Nice façade at the Fondamenta de la Misericordia

View from the Ponte Chiado
View from the Ponte Chiado

The next bridge: Ponte Racheta
The next bridge: Ponte Racheta

View from the Ponte Priuli de la Squero
View from the Ponte Priuli de la Squero

Cordyard at the Calle Ca' D'Oro
Cordyard at the Calle Ca' D'Oro

View down the channel from the end of Calle Ca' D'Oro
View down the channel from the end of Calle Ca' D'Oro

Enough for this post – there is more to come but since I fly to BKK in 2 days it will have to wait till Pai I guess.

 
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Summer Trip 2016 Part 7 – Lake Como

2016-11-16 at 22:52

The Summer Trip 2016 was successful so far and I was on a roll – lets continue – till the end of summer at last. We did start in Stuttgart and stopped in Switzerland. After a few days with Lara and Chris (see the last Blog post Part 6) we did pack the bag and put the stuff in the car. Over the mountains toward the lake was the goal of the day. Since it was a nice morning I did look forward to great views from the mountains. Well that did not really happen.

The San Gottardo Pass Desaster

Down in the valley you pass little villages right out of Heidi. Neat lawns, flowers, houses made of wood or big old farm houses and a nice church in the middle of the village. Green Green up to where the Gray stone starts – mountains like you would draw them if you where an artist.
After all that nice scenery you reach the end of the valley. Further down is a Swiss military installation and just before the entrance to the tunnel that leads to the other side of the mountains starts you have to take a left up the mountains and start to climb up the windy road – it gets cloudy and more cloudy and finally we drove not faster than 10 km/h since you could not even see the other side of the road. Great – instead of “enjoy the view and cruise” it was pay 110% attention and go as slow as possible. I never saw such thick fog before. So the nice cruise turned out to be a slow crawl for about 30 minutes. Over the top of the pass and down again on the other side. How boring!

Airolo - after the clouds did clear on the San Gottardo Pass
A few Kilometre before Airolo – after the clouds did clear on the San Gottardo Pass

Two nights at Fabrizio’s Place

I did meet Fabrizio a long time ago in Pai and he was up there almost every year. No he likes to hang out on an island in the South. Why not? Did meet his friend Davide also up in Pai last winter. Since I did not see Fabi for 2 years I was happy to visit him at his place. He wanted to make something local for us: Pizzoccheri. And with the help of Davide he did just that. What better than visit a friend and have a home cooked meal?

Pizzoccheri are a type of short tagliatelle, a flat ribbon pasta, made with 80% buckwheat flour and 20% wheat flour. Classically prepared they are cooked along with greens, cabbage, and cubed potatoes. This mixture is layered with pieces of Valtellina Casera cheese and ground Grana Padano or Parmigiano Reggiano, and dressed with garlic lightly fried in butter – a lot of butter. The vegetables and pasta are cooked in the same pot so the pasta can soak up the flavour. It’s an old-fashioned winter dish meant to pack so many calories into your body that you don’t need to eat again until summer. It did last us till noon the next day!

The guys make Pizzoccheri for us
The guys make Pizzoccheri for us an I had some red and watched the cooking action.

Down in Lecco with Fabi & Davide
After dinner we went down into Lecco with Fabi & Davide

Bellagio

The next morning we went to Bellagio. Did stop for coffee, snack and a swim in Oliveto Lario on the way to Bellagio.

At the lake in Oliveto Lario
At the lake in Oliveto Lario

Boat docking in Oliveto Lario
Boat docking in Oliveto Lario with a plane in the sky.

Next stop Bellagio. There are a few places to park for free when you drive down towards the lake. From there it is a 5 minute work to the town center. So we did park there and walked down. The sky was Gray but it did not really look like it would start to rain. From what I saw Bellagio did not change a lot since I was here a few years ago with Cristina and Marius. Still full of tourists, quite expensive and most of the shops cater only to tourists since the locals would never get anything there.

Lido in Bellagio
The Lido in Bellagio – does not really look nice on a Gray day

Sad house in Bellagio
A bit before you reach the ferry dock is the saddest house in Bellagio. Must have been the best place in town. Now it does wait – for a better future – I hope to long!

Bellagio

Bellagio

Tourist took a picture of a tourist taking a picture of tourists
Tourist took a picture of a tourist taking a picture of tourists

The ferry terminal in Bellagio
The ferry terminal in Bellagio

View from Bellagio down the lake
View from Bellagio down the lake

Basilica di San Giacomo
Basilica di San Giacomo – construction did start in 1075!

Basilica di San Giacomo

Basilica di San Giacomo

Basilica di San Giacomo

Basilica di San Giacomo

We did get a sandwich from a little shop with super friendly people. They where singing while preparing the food. Well for the money we had to fork out for the sandwich I would have done my best as well to entertain the customers while they wait. With all that tourist action they still where friendly and happy. But they did a good job with the food and we took cold Peroni as well to have a nice lunch down at the lake.

Peroni in Bellagio
Peroni in Bellagio

It was late afternoon when we walked back to the car. Drove back to Fabrizio again and in the evening we went to the local Pizza place. Got a place next to the open wood oven. This way Fabrizio and the cook could chat while the man was doing the pizzas. Had salad before, red wine with it, Limoncello after it and of course one can not leave without dolce – they had fresh home-made Tiramisu so we went for it.

Pizza is good for your heart!
Pizza is good for your heart!

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